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Tie
Dye
Traditional
tie-dye
Shibori includes a form of tie-dye that originated in Japan.
It has been practiced there since at least the eighth century.
Shibori includes a number of labor-intensive resist techniques including
stitching
elaborate patterns and tightly gathering the stitching before dyeing,
forming intricate designs for kimonos.
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Another
shibori method is to wrap the fabric around a core of rope,
wood or other material, and bind it tightly with string or thread.
The areas of the fabric that are against the core or under the binding
would remain undyed.
Tie-dye techniques have also been used for centuries in the Hausa
region of West Africa,
with renowned indigo dye pits located in and around Kano, Nigeria.
The tie-dyed clothing is then richly embroidered in traditional
patterns.
It has been argued that the Hausa techniques were the inspiration
for the hippie fashion.
Plangi and tritik are Malay-Indonesian words for methods related
to tie-dye,
and bandhna is a term from India. Ikat is a method of tie-dying
the warp or weft before the cloth is woven.
In the 20th Century, tie-dye became associated with the Hippie movement.
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Tie-dye
is typically brightly colored, patterned textile or clothing which
is made from ordinary cloth,
usually cotton, through a resist dyeing process known as tie-dyeing.
This is the modern version of a traditional dyeing method, used
in many cultures in Asia and Africa.
Tie-dyeing was briefly very fashionable in the West in the late
1960s and early 1970s, as part of hippie style.
The basic
process is to tie up the material before applying dye in such a
way that the dye only reaches part of the area to which it is applied.
The boundaries of the dyed and non-dyed areas are usually rather
blurred, as the dye has begun to soak into the non-dyed sections.
This is part of the decorative effect.
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During tie-dyeing,
if a good fiber reactive dye is used,
a chemical reaction takes place which permanently bonds the colorful
dye to the fabric,
making tie-dye safe to wash amongst other, non-tie-dyed clothes
once the excess dye has been removed.
As the name suggests, the fabric is tied, usually with string or
rubber bands, after being folded into a particular pattern.
Some areas, where the textile is tied and in inner parts of folds,
do not absorb dye as readily, forming a pattern.
This is known as a resist technique (the areas that are tied and
the inner parts of folds resist dyeing).
Patterns are also formed by applying different color dyes to different
sections of the fabric.
Next, the folded and tied textile may be submerged in a bath of
soda ash solution for 5-30 minutes.
Submerging the fabric in a solution of soda ash, which has a high
pH,
prepares the cellulose fibers of the cloth for permanent chemical
bonding
with the acidic fiber-reactive dye used in tie-dyeing.
Dye is then applied,
either by submerging the cloth bundle in a bath of dye
or by squirting dyes onto specific areas of the fabric.
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Alternatively,
the soda ash may be added directly to the dye solution rather than
soaking the textile in a solution of soda ash.
With this technique the dye must be used within about two hours
as the soda ash within the dye solution will react with the dye.
After 12-48 hours, depending temperature, dye, and the desired brightness
of the final product,
the fabric can be unwrapped and rinsed.
After working out the excess dye under running water, tie-dye should
be washed in a washing machine.
A detergent called Synthrapol is preferred by many dyers, although
any neutral detergent may be used.
Excessively alkaline detergents may cause back staining.
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Dyes
Although many different kinds of dyes may be used,
most tie-dyers now dye with Procion MX fiber reactive dyes.
This class of dyes works at warm room temperatures
and the molecules bind with cellulose based fibers
(cotton, rayon, hemp, linen) permanently when the pH is raised.
Soda ash (sodium carbonate) is generally used to raise the pH and
is either added directly to the dye, or in a solution of water
in which garments are soaked before dyeing.
They do not fade with washing, but sunlight will cause the colors
to fade over time.
If you'd
rather speak with a human there,
call toll-free from anywhere in the U.S. or Canada 8am to 5pm PST
Phone: 800-542-5227
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Tie Die Your
Wall
* Materials: sandpaper; soft cloth; oil or alkyd paints, glazing liquid;
mineral spirits;
paint brushes; plastic wrap; turkey feathers; disposable gloves; high-gloss
polyurethane.
* Fill in any holes or irregularities in the wall; sand until perfectly
smooth.
If you working on wood, remove any prior finishes completely and sand
until smooth.
Wipe the surface clean with a slightly damp cloth.
* Paint the base coat in your background color
* Prepare your other colors. Mix five parts paint with one part glazing
liquid.
Add mineral spirits as needed until the paint is the consistency of
whole milk.
* Paint areas with color -- first paint areas with a darker shade of
your color,
once that process was completed, the next color.
While the glaze is still wet, use a wadded piece of plastic wrap to
blot and lift some of the glaze,
exposing some of the pink underneath.
* While you can use a fine brush for this next step, a turkey feather
is the ideal tool for details.
While the glazes are still wet, hold the feather by the quill and dip
the wispy end
of the feather into the dark color glaze. Let excess paint drip off.
* Lay the feather against the glazed surface, dragging it in patterns
such as shown above.
Flicking your wrist slightly as you drag will create a variation in
the thickness of the lines.
* Add depth by lightly brushing across the wet lines with a dry, stiff
brush, blending them into the background.
* Let the paint dry completely -- from several days (for alkyds) to
a week (for oils) depending on humidity.
The paint can feel dry to the touch but the underlying layers need a
chance to dry thoroughly.
* Coat with two or more layers of high-gloss polyurethane.
Technically, this technique could be done with acrylic paints but using
slower
drying paints allows some time for manipulation to the paint layers.
Work in sections if youre working on a large wall space.
Paint the entire surface in the background color.
Let dry.
Lightly mark off manageable sections of 1-2 square feet using a yardstick
or T-square and pencil.
Work progressively on the wall sections, carrying through the pattern
from the adjoining section.
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