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Tie Dye
Traditional tie-dye

Shibori includes a form of tie-dye that originated in Japan.
It has been practiced there since at least the eighth century.
Shibori includes a number of labor-intensive resist techniques including stitching
elaborate patterns and tightly gathering the stitching before dyeing,
forming intricate designs for kimonos.

Another shibori method is to wrap the fabric around a core of rope,
wood or other material, and bind it tightly with string or thread.
The areas of the fabric that are against the core or under the binding would remain undyed.
Tie-dye techniques have also been used for centuries in the Hausa region of West Africa,
with renowned indigo dye pits located in and around Kano, Nigeria.
The tie-dyed clothing is then richly embroidered in traditional patterns.
It has been argued that the Hausa techniques were the inspiration for the hippie fashion.
Plangi and tritik are Malay-Indonesian words for methods related to tie-dye,
and bandhna is a term from India. Ikat is a method of tie-dying the warp or weft before the cloth is woven.

In the 20th Century, tie-dye became associated with the Hippie movement.

Tie-dye is typically brightly colored, patterned textile or clothing which is made from ordinary cloth,
usually cotton, through a resist dyeing process known as tie-dyeing.
This is the modern version of a traditional dyeing method, used in many cultures in Asia and Africa.
Tie-dyeing was briefly very fashionable in the West in the late 1960s and early 1970s, as part of hippie style.

The basic process is to tie up the material before applying dye in such a way that the dye only reaches part of the area to which it is applied.
The boundaries of the dyed and non-dyed areas are usually rather blurred, as the dye has begun to soak into the non-dyed sections.
This is part of the decorative effect.

During tie-dyeing, if a good fiber reactive dye is used,
a chemical reaction takes place which permanently bonds the colorful dye to the fabric,
making tie-dye safe to wash amongst other, non-tie-dyed clothes once the excess dye has been removed.

As the name suggests, the fabric is tied, usually with string or rubber bands, after being folded into a particular pattern.
Some areas, where the textile is tied and in inner parts of folds, do not absorb dye as readily, forming a pattern.
This is known as a resist technique (the areas that are tied and the inner parts of folds resist dyeing).

Patterns are also formed by applying different color dyes to different sections of the fabric.
Next, the folded and tied textile may be submerged in a bath of soda ash solution for 5-30 minutes.
Submerging the fabric in a solution of soda ash, which has a high pH,
prepares the cellulose fibers of the cloth for permanent chemical bonding
with the acidic fiber-reactive dye used in tie-dyeing.

Dye is then applied,
either by submerging the cloth bundle in a bath of dye
or by squirting dyes onto specific areas of the fabric.

Alternatively, the soda ash may be added directly to the dye solution rather than soaking the textile in a solution of soda ash.
With this technique the dye must be used within about two hours as the soda ash within the dye solution will react with the dye.

After 12-48 hours, depending temperature, dye, and the desired brightness of the final product,
the fabric can be unwrapped and rinsed.
After working out the excess dye under running water, tie-dye should be washed in a washing machine.
A detergent called Synthrapol is preferred by many dyers, although any neutral detergent may be used.
Excessively alkaline detergents may cause back staining.

Dyes
Although many different kinds of dyes may be used,
most tie-dyers now dye with Procion MX fiber reactive dyes.
This class of dyes works at warm room temperatures
and the molecules bind with cellulose based fibers
(cotton, rayon, hemp, linen) permanently when the pH is raised.
Soda ash (sodium carbonate) is generally used to raise the pH and
is either added directly to the dye, or in a solution of water
in which garments are soaked before dyeing.
They do not fade with washing, but sunlight will cause the colors to fade over time.

For Full Instructions with Pictures
Click on the Hippie Store below-


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Tie Die Your Wall

* Materials: sandpaper; soft cloth; oil or alkyd paints, glazing liquid; mineral spirits;
paint brushes; plastic wrap; turkey feathers; disposable gloves; high-gloss polyurethane.

* Fill in any holes or irregularities in the wall; sand until perfectly smooth.
If you working on wood, remove any prior finishes completely and sand until smooth.
Wipe the surface clean with a slightly damp cloth.

* Paint the base coat in your background color

* Prepare your other colors. Mix five parts paint with one part glazing liquid.
Add mineral spirits as needed until the paint is the consistency of whole milk.

* Paint areas with color -- first paint areas with a darker shade of your color,
once that process was completed, the next color.
While the glaze is still wet, use a wadded piece of plastic wrap to blot and lift some of the glaze,
exposing some of the pink underneath.

* While you can use a fine brush for this next step, a turkey feather is the ideal tool for details.
While the glazes are still wet, hold the feather by the quill and dip the wispy end
of the feather into the dark color glaze. Let excess paint drip off.

* Lay the feather against the glazed surface, dragging it in patterns such as shown above.
Flicking your wrist slightly as you drag will create a variation in the thickness of the lines.

* Add depth by lightly brushing across the wet lines with a dry, stiff brush, blending them into the background.

* Let the paint dry completely -- from several days (for alkyds) to a week (for oils) depending on humidity.
The paint can feel dry to the touch but the underlying layers need a chance to dry thoroughly.

* Coat with two or more layers of high-gloss polyurethane.

Technically, this technique could be done with acrylic paints but using slower
drying paints allows some time for manipulation to the paint layers.

Work in sections if you’re working on a large wall space.
Paint the entire surface in the background color.
Let dry.
Lightly mark off manageable sections of 1-2 square feet using a yardstick or T-square and pencil.
Work progressively on the wall sections, carrying through the pattern from the adjoining section.














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